Ammo can recouping

[+L0ne.R]

We have a cache placed in May 2005 where we use an ammo can. Last week I found that the lid came completely off. Closer examination showed the the 3 hinge pins were sheared. Other then the hinge pins the ammo can is in good shape. Should I and/or could I replace the hinge pins. Has anyone done this with success? I've already replaced the can with a new one from the surplus store but it feels like a shame to toss this one out.

[Mr.Yuck]

We have a cache placed in May 2005 where we use an ammo can. Last week I found that the lid came completely off. Closer examination showed the the 3 hinge pins were sheared. Other then the hinge pins the ammo can is in good shape. Should I and/or could I replace the hinge pins. Has anyone done this with success? I've already replaced the can with a new one from the surplus store but it feels like a shame to toss this one out.

 

I too have an old ammo can (placed in 2004, and replaced with a lock-n-lock) sitting in the basement with failed (missing) pins. I doubt they can be purchased anywhere. However, I've always figured a machinist could measure the length and diameter, and easily duplicate them with standard carbon steel material on a lathe. Maybe your post will motivate me to finally get moving on this. In the meantime, I'd love to hear from anyone else who has replaced ammo can hinge pins.

[+bflentje]

We have a cache placed in May 2005 where we use an ammo can. Last week I found that the lid came completely off. Closer examination showed the the 3 hinge pins were sheared. Other then the hinge pins the ammo can is in good shape. Should I and/or could I replace the hinge pins. Has anyone done this with success? I've already replaced the can with a new one from the surplus store but it feels like a shame to toss this one out.

 

I too have an old ammo can (placed in 2004, and replaced with a lock-n-lock) sitting in the basement with failed (missing) pins. I doubt they can be purchased anywhere. However, I've always figured a machinist could measure the length and diameter, and easily duplicate them with standard carbon steel material on a lathe. Maybe your post will motivate me to finally get moving on this. In the meantime, I'd love to hear from anyone else who has replaced ammo can hinge pins.

 

Sounds like a lot of screwing around on something only worth a few bucks.

[knowschad]

Unless there's something special about that particular can (rare, very large, whatever) I wouldn't think it would be cost effective to repair it. Suggestion: epoxy the top on and turn it into a travel bug. Wouldn't be many caches that it would fit in, though!

[Mr.Yuck]

We have a cache placed in May 2005 where we use an ammo can. Last week I found that the lid came completely off. Closer examination showed the the 3 hinge pins were sheared. Other then the hinge pins the ammo can is in good shape. Should I and/or could I replace the hinge pins. Has anyone done this with success? I've already replaced the can with a new one from the surplus store but it feels like a shame to toss this one out.

 

I too have an old ammo can (placed in 2004, and replaced with a lock-n-lock) sitting in the basement with failed (missing) pins. I doubt they can be purchased anywhere. However, I've always figured a machinist could measure the length and diameter, and easily duplicate them with standard carbon steel material on a lathe. Maybe your post will motivate me to finally get moving on this. In the meantime, I'd love to hear from anyone else who has replaced ammo can hinge pins.

 

Sounds like a lot of screwing around on something only worth a few bucks.

 

Well, a lot of screwing around if you don't know a machinist, and just walk into a machine shop off the street. I'll also bet if you were to measure the ammo can pins very accurately with a micrometer, you'd be able to get something at this place online.

[+ras_oscar]

why not just get a couple nails the right diameter, snip off the head and point, and bend both ends?

[+ngrrfan]

A 10 penny nail works just fine. I fixed one earlier this week. File the flutes down on the pointed end and drive the nail through all the hinge points.

[Mr.Yuck]

A 10 penny nail works just fine. I fixed one earlier this week. File the flutes down on the pointed end and drive the nail through all the hinge points.

 

Now that's the kind of info I'm looking for! The pins on a .30 cal box are 3/4" long. I assume the same for a .50 cal box, but I don't have one in front of me.

 

The OP is Canadian though, I hope he can buy nails in penny sizes. I have serious doubts he will be able to.

[GOF and Bacall]

I was gonna suggest roll pins but the nails should work fine. Take some WD40 with you when you make a maintenance run.

[+Harry Dolphin]

Ouch. Language Police Headache!

Define: recouping.

[GOF and Bacall]

Ouch. Language Police Headache!

Define: recouping.

 

Thanks teach. The world is once again safe from English class dropouts.

[+L0ne.R]

Ouch. Language Police Headache!

Define: recouping.

 

re⋅coup

  /rɪˈkup/ Show Spelled Pronunciation [ri-koop] Show IPA

 

–verb (used with object)

1. to get back the equivalent of: to recoup one's losses by a lucky investment.

2. to regain or recover.

3. to reimburse or indemnify; pay back: to recoup a person for expenses.

4. Law. to withhold (a portion of something due), having some rightful claim to do so.

–verb (used without object)

5. to get back an equivalent, as of something lost.

6. Law. to plead in defense a claim arising out of the same subject matter as the plaintiff's claim.

–noun

7. an act of recouping.

 

I used it to mean "to regain or recover".

[+L0ne.R]

A 10 penny nail works just fine. I fixed one earlier this week. File the flutes down on the pointed end and drive the nail through all the hinge points.

 

Now that's the kind of info I'm looking for! The pins on a .30 cal box are 3/4" long. I assume the same for a .50 cal box, but I don't have one in front of me.

 

Here's a photo of the hinges:

 

 

There are 3 separate hinges. So looks like I'll need 3 small nails. They're in there pretty tight so I'll need WD40, a hammer and awl to pop them out. I'll give it a try. If it's too much fuss I'll turn it into a catch-all for stuff in the basement.

[+Jeep4two]

Interesting thread. Now I need to get one of those tiny WD40 spray cans, or some 3 in 1 oil to keep in my swag bag. Ran across a 5 year old cache this weekend that had hinge pins that were in good shape but getting rusty. Some 3 in 1, WD40 or just plain ole axle grease would do them good

 

I like the cheap repair tips - even though it may only be a $5.00 ammo box, sometimes getting to the source costs more than the cans themselves. I guess that's why I bought 10 (5 x 7.62's and 5 x 50mm) when I last found myself at a surplus store ($4 and $6 respectively).

 

Hoping to get my first ammo can on the ground this weekend.

[GOF and Bacall]

A 10 penny nail works just fine. I fixed one earlier this week. File the flutes down on the pointed end and drive the nail through all the hinge points.

 

Now that's the kind of info I'm looking for! The pins on a .30 cal box are 3/4" long. I assume the same for a .50 cal box, but I don't have one in front of me.

 

Here's a photo of the hinges:

 

 

There are 3 separate hinges. So looks like I'll need 3 small nails. They're in there pretty tight so I'll need WD40, a hammer and awl to pop them out. I'll give it a try. If it's too much fuss I'll turn it into a catch-all for stuff in the basement.

 

Once you have knocked all six pin pieces out you can probably use one long nail. The lid will just not be removable.

[AZcachemeister]

 

Once you have knocked all six pin pieces out you can probably use one long nail. The lid will just not be removable.

 

I was going to say that!

Just thread some heavy solid-strand copper wire (probably 10Ga) through there and call it good, no rust problem with copper.

[+ngrrfan]

 

Just thread some heavy solid-strand copper wire (probably 10Ga) through there and call it good, no rust problem with copper.

But copper wire is soft and will wear out faster than a 10 penny nail. The box I fixed was a 30 cal and the nail was just the right length to go through all 6 hinge pieces.

[Mr.Yuck]

A 10 penny nail works just fine. I fixed one earlier this week. File the flutes down on the pointed end and drive the nail through all the hinge points.

 

Now that's the kind of info I'm looking for! The pins on a .30 cal box are 3/4" long. I assume the same for a .50 cal box, but I don't have one in front of me.

 

Here's a photo of the hinges:

 

[snipped by TWU]

 

There are 3 separate hinges. So looks like I'll need 3 small nails. They're in there pretty tight so I'll need WD40, a hammer and awl to pop them out. I'll give it a try. If it's too much fuss I'll turn it into a catch-all for stuff in the basement.

 

Once you have knocked all six pin pieces out you can probably use one long nail. The lid will just not be removable.

 

Actually, the ammo box only has 3 pins, and the cover slides over them. My specimen has two missing pins. I am going to try this with 10 penny nails. But by the time I get around to doing it, I'm sure I'll have to bump this thread from the third page.

Edited September 2, 2009 by TheWhiteUrkel

[+ras_oscar]

 

Once you have knocked all six pin pieces out you can probably use one long nail. The lid will just not be removable.

 

I was going to say that!

Just thread some heavy solid-strand copper wire (probably 10Ga) through there and call it good, no rust problem with copper.

 

Dont mix metals in the presence of moisture or you'll accelerate corrosion due to galvanic reaction. See chart here http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Cor...Cor_bi_met.html

 

Basically the metals exchange ions in a process similar to electroplating. Infortunately the metaql loosing ions rots. Better to stick with steel and steel or non-metallic