Krylon Fusion "plastic" Spraypaint

[[MTB]_Intrepid]

I bought a couple of small plastic ammo boxes that are waterproof but gawdawful shades of red and yellow. Has anyone used Fusion spraypaint on plastic cache-tainers? It would be a lot easier than camo tape but I'm wondering how it will hold up to the elements. Cheers.

[+Two Geeks and a GPS]

Used on our patio table.....3 years and running. Good stuff.

[+briansnat]

Where'd you find it? I've been looking for it to use on my Lock 'n Lock containers.

[+planetrobert]

my luck was so so

[+shwnstr]

I've used it alot. It works really well on most plastics, but don't try it on rubbery or vinyl like what's on plier handles for example, It never dries in soft plastics. I know ACE sells it. I'm pretty sure you can find it at just about any hardware store. Try it . I think you'll like it.

[+NightPilot]

I used it on a set of patio chairs, that had originally been white and were badly discolored. It's still holding up after a couple of years. A few white scratches, where the chair was scratched into the plastic, but that's not the fault of the paint. It should be available just about anywhere spray paint is sold. I know Wally World has it, and most hardware stores.

[SilverLynx]

Remember to scuff the surface with fine sand paper, steel wool, or Copper scrubby for pots and pans. The paint will have an easier time sticking to the surface, in my experience.

 

Lynx

[+Mule Ears]

I've used it on neoprene pipe-insulation jacket in an outdoor location. It's held up very well for a couple of years now. So it resists the elements--don't know how it would fare with a lot of handling.

[adampierson]

The stuff works great - provided the surface is just right. The stuff literally bonds itself to the plastic in most cases. Tupperware lids, however don't seem to do quite as well - I suspect it's the material and the lid gets the most wear and tear that is the cause of this.

[+Medic005]

Rustoleum make a similar product called "Paint for Plastic", I've used it on plastic lawn chairs and it works good.

 

Here's a link:

 

Paint for Plastic

[[MTB]_Intrepid]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll try the Fusion on my fine Chinese plastic. Hopefully it won't chemically react and spontaneously combust.

[+jerryme]

I've had good sucess with the new plastic primers now on the market. I recommend, scuffing the plastic well with sandpaper, using the plastic primer and then the camo paint. I've had best sucess with hard plastics like PVC over more flexible stuff like rubbermaid. Just my $.02.

[+Gorak]

I've had pretty good luck with Krylon Camo paint on well sanded Lock & Lock containers. Sanding has to be done quite carefully to ensure you get all painted surfaces, though and is quite time consuming. Has anyone tried sand blasting the plastic containers as an alternative to sanding?

[+Stunod]

I've had pretty good luck with Krylon Camo paint on well sanded Lock & Lock containers. Sanding has to be done quite carefully to ensure you get all painted surfaces, though and is quite time consuming. Has anyone tried sand blasting the plastic containers as an alternative to sanding?

I use a chemical "de-glosser" available in the paint department. It lightly etches the surface and removes any oils that would keep the paint from sticking.

[+NightPilot]

I don't know about plastic containers, but I brought in a guy from offshore the other night who had sandblasted his face. Using sand under high pressure is not a recommended technique for removing dead skin, because it's very easy to remove live skin. If you're sandblasting, always remember to insure, very carefully, that all the pressure is gone before you do anything with the equipment.

[+GSVNoFixedAbode]

From threads many moons ago...

It's all to do with the wax surface of the plastic ie

PP recycle code "5" and PE recycle code "4"- have

a waxy surface that needs to be removed.

Note: they are inherently waxy - and after surface

treating the wax will work it's way back to the

surface eventually.

PVC - recycle code "3" can be coated with a Metal

Primer to get good adhesion. Works on Marley

guttering and downpipes etc.

PET - recycle code "1" can be sanded or washed

with an etching primer. If the container is

Polypropylene or Polyethylene it would be easier

to lightly flame the surface with a blow torch to

remove the wax surface - it's the accepted

commercial method before printing containers. A

bit of experimenting with a big yellow flame

passed quickly over the surface should do.

Stopping in one spot is not recommended.

 

Now, everyone, in a BIG voice... F L A M E ! !