Groundspeak Forums: Covering Styrofoam With Plaster? - Groundspeak Forums

Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Covering Styrofoam With Plaster? Materials to cover styrofoam

#1 User is offline   GeoWomyn_SF_CA 

  • Premium Member
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 52
  • Joined: 14-July 03

Posted 12 February 2004 - 01:12 PM

Hi Everyone,

I made a camo housing for a cache made out of styrofoam and I sprayed it with grey spray paint. However, after it dried the styofoam no longer looked like a rectangle but changed shape and now it looks like a meteor. Heh. That is not what I had in mind. :unsure: I want it to remain rectangular.

What kind of material could I coat styrofoam with? It would have to retain the
intial shape, fill the pock holes, and be water proof.

Do you think wall plaster might work?

Thanks!
GeoWomyn_SF_CA (California)

#2 User is offline   Team GPSaxophone 

  • Smurfy Member
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 13332
  • Joined: 21-April 02

Posted 12 February 2004 - 01:17 PM

Well, since you've already figured out that spray paint actually eats styrofoam, I can't help you. Have patience, young grasshopper. Someone will come along shortly with an answer to your query!


Yes, plaster will work, but I'm not sure how it would hold up in wet weather


#3 User is offline   Dorkus&Co. 

  • Premium Member
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 50
  • Joined: 10-November 02

Posted 12 February 2004 - 01:33 PM

I've had luck using water based paints, like household latex paint, on styrofoam. Spray paint solvents disolve the stryofoam.

Jim

#4 User is offline   CoyoteRed 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 7122
  • Joined: 22-August 02

Posted 12 February 2004 - 01:43 PM

Solvents eat styrofoam. Use a waterbased product.

You may even be able to prime the foam with a water based paint and when cured, spray with an agressive solvent paint like Krylon. I haven't tried it, but it may work.

#5 User is offline   rusty_tlc 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 4294
  • Joined: 26-December 02

Posted 12 February 2004 - 02:13 PM

Stucco.

#6 User is offline   GIDEON-X 

  • Dark Rider
  • Group: +Charter Members
  • Posts: 855
  • Joined: 20-February 01

  Posted 12 February 2004 - 03:31 PM

You should have good luck with Fiberglass & resin, just like you'd use on a boat or surf board ~~~~ also it'll take any kind of paint

#7 User is offline   rusty_tlc 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 4294
  • Joined: 26-December 02

Posted 12 February 2004 - 03:35 PM

Stucco.

My new house is covered with styrofoam, a layer of chicken wire, and a layer of stucco. This method is used a lot because 1) it works 2) you can make a lot of different shapes 3) its cheap.
Did I mention it's cheap and it works?

#8 User is offline   Corp Of Discovery 

  • Galactic cacher.
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 2186
  • Joined: 16-January 03

Posted 12 February 2004 - 06:01 PM

Testors model spray paint doesn't melt styrofoam (unless they've changed it).
Other model paint may not melt it either, try your local hobby shop or craft store.

#9 User is offline   IV_Warrior 

  • <this space left blank>
  • Group: +Charter Members
  • Posts: 2443
  • Joined: 23-December 02

Posted 12 February 2004 - 06:24 PM

I'd go with fiberglass. You should be able to find fiberglass matts, just cut to the size needed. Mix resin and apply to the foam, lay the mats down, and coat with resin...may need to go a little sanding to get the edges looking good, but should be long lasting, paintable, and weather-proof.


PS, if you actually go this route, ask for more detailed instructions where ever you buy the materials.

#10 User is offline   Og's outfit 

  • Slug Squishers
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 604
  • Joined: 05-March 03

Posted 12 February 2004 - 06:45 PM

Duct tape.

#11 User is offline   9Key 

  • Traced In Air
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 3449
  • Joined: 11-March 02

Posted 12 February 2004 - 09:08 PM

Give Hypertufa a try. GeoVamp has made a couple of fake boulders that are styrofoam covered with hypertufa. You might ask him for any pointers on the stuff.

His latest rock conceals a full sized ammo can in a busy park. *Very* kewl cache! :unsure:

#12 User is offline   uperdooper 

  • I gotta shoot sumthin'...
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 8121
  • Joined: 13-October 03

Posted 12 February 2004 - 09:24 PM

GeoWomyn_SF_CA, on Feb 12 2004, 04:12 PM, said:

Hi Everyone,

I made a camo housing for a cache made out of styrofoam and I sprayed it with grey spray paint. However, after it dried the styofoam no longer looked like a rectangle but changed shape and now it looks like a meteor. Heh. That is not what I had in mind. :unsure: I want it to remain rectangular.

What kind of material could I coat styrofoam with? It would have to retain the
intial shape, fill the pock holes, and be water proof.

Do you think wall plaster might work?

Thanks!
GeoWomyn_SF_CA (California)

what's wrong with a meteor shaped cache? could be cool. you could call it the "men in black" cache. have people trade nothing but sunglasses.

#13 User is offline   JohnnyVegas 

  • Back to school
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 5306
  • Joined: 05-January 03

Posted 12 February 2004 - 11:43 PM

This is the way you paint styrafoam, it is very easy to do.

You paint it first with Elmers glue, you will want to color the glue with a water base food coloring so that you know what part u have painted. After it dries you can paint it with spray paint. The Elmers glur shell will protect the styrafoam from the paint. I learned this years ago in a college stage craft class, we used this technique quite a few times.

#14 User is offline   GeoTeam Maggi 

  • Cute, Cleaver, Mischievous
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 86
  • Joined: 19-January 03

Posted 13 February 2004 - 12:01 AM

Good tip from JonnyVegas!! To fill the voids, try a lightweight, waterbased spackle first. You may also use paper mache over the surface to give it strength. It the theatre, we used a product called areoball (spelling?) to seal styrafoam prior to painting. This was available from plumbing supply houses. A company that deals in 3-D letters (usually of foam) may also have some ideas. Good luck.

#15 User is offline   CoyoteRed 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 7122
  • Joined: 22-August 02

Posted 13 February 2004 - 04:31 AM

GeoTeam Maggi, on Feb 13 2004, 12:01 AM, said:

A company that deals in 3-D letters (usually of foam) may also have some ideas.

Most sign companies have gotten away from foam letters. One of the problems is bugs trying to hide in them and birds pecking at them. They destroy the letters. Plastic letter are only a little more expensive and last a very last time without the worries.

#16 User is offline   richfng 

  • Tadpole
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 5
  • Joined: 05-June 03

Posted 13 February 2004 - 06:30 AM

Many commercial buildings use a fiberglass mesh material over the foam then a layer of stucco then paint it. Foam is a wonderful home for insects to easily burro into--- warm, dark and dry, especially termites, which is why some local building codes do not allow you to use it below grade (Underground). Another thing to conside is the UV from the sun beating down on this and eventually causing it to fall apart. What effect or look are you trying for? Or are you just trying to make your cache weather proof? If you are trying to camouflage the cache, so Muggles can't accidentally find it or to make the cache more of a challenge, I'd leave the meteor look to break up the box outline. If you want to keep the box shape try using an exterior rated latex house paint.

#17 User is offline   Mopar 

  • Preparing for change
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 6692
  • Joined: 27-September 01

Posted 13 February 2004 - 12:48 PM

Mzee & Associates, on Feb 12 2004, 06:31 PM, said:

You should have good luck with Fiberglass & resin, just like you'd use on a boat or surf board ~~~~ also it'll take any kind of paint

If you are gonna go with fiberglass, you need to use epoxy based resin, not the cheaper polyester based resin usually used for autobody work and stuff. The polyester resin will eat the foam as well.

#18 User is offline   woof n lulu 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 3400
  • Joined: 23-March 03

Posted 13 February 2004 - 01:45 PM

Carveable Stone

3 parts vermiculite (garden section at stores everywhere)
2 parts plaster of paris
2 scoops of water

Mix vermiculite, plaster of Paris and water. Pour mixture into a paper container such as milk carton. Wait fifteen minutes. Peel away paper. The "stone" will be soft at this stage. Mold with hands or carve using a spoon. If you want to work further on your carving, store in a sealable plastic bag...but not for too long.
When done modeling, let dry for a few days and coat with any type paint and sealer.


Makes a secret treasure holder that looks like a rock

#19 User is offline   wildearth2001 

  • Premium Member
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 2956
  • Joined: 08-April 03

Posted 13 February 2004 - 01:56 PM

woof n lulu, on Feb 13 2004, 02:45 PM, said:

Carveable Stone

3 parts vermiculite (garden section at stores everywhere)
2 parts plaster of paris
2 scoops of water

Mix vermiculite, plaster of Paris and water. Pour mixture into a paper container such as milk carton. Wait fifteen minutes. Peel away paper. The "stone" will be soft at this stage. Mold with hands or carve using a spoon. If you want to work further on your carving, store in a sealable plastic bag...but not for too long.
When done modeling, let dry for a few days and coat with any type paint and sealer.


Makes a secret treasure holder that looks like a rock

how hard is it to get to look like a real rock?

#20 User is offline   WalruZ 

  • Premium Member
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 880
  • Joined: 11-July 03

Posted 13 February 2004 - 06:58 PM

go to www.google.com and search for Make Fake Rock

#21 User is offline   Gizmo & Brazin 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 294
  • Joined: 17-January 04

  Posted 13 February 2004 - 07:14 PM

Mopar, on Feb 13 2004, 12:48 PM, said:

Mzee & Associates, on Feb 12 2004, 06:31 PM, said:

You should have good luck with Fiberglass & resin, just like you'd use on a boat or surf board ~~~~ also it'll take any kind of paint

If you are gonna go with fiberglass, you need to use epoxy based resin, not the cheaper polyester based resin usually used for autobody work and stuff. The polyester resin will eat the foam as well.

Mopar is right. I worked for an epoxy & polyester manufacturer for 12 years and polyester resins will attack foam. Stick with epoxies. About twice the cost, but well worth it. If money isn't a big concern, consider a epoxy putty, like "SuperMend". Two parts, just mix and spread. You can also make your own putty by adding Cabosil to the epoxy resin and hardener. If you use a resin and hardener I recommend about a 6 oz cloth instead of mat. Easier to shape and work with. You can also add pigments to the resins so there is no need to paint (paint is ok, but will chip over time). A good universal coloring additive is the straight base stuff that get's squirted into your base paint to color it at the local paint/hardware sture. Good Luck!

#22 User is offline   JMBella 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 4063
  • Joined: 30-June 03

Posted 13 February 2004 - 08:04 PM

rusty_tlc, on Feb 12 2004, 03:35 PM, said:

Stucco.

My new house is covered with Styrofoam, a layer of chicken wire, and a layer of stucco. This method is used a lot because 1) it works 2) you can make a lot of different shapes 3) its cheap.
Did I mention it's cheap and it works?

Exactly. That is the typical application for stucco in construction. I would imagine plaster will work too, but I can guarantee stucco will work.

#23 User is offline   9Key 

  • Traced In Air
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 3449
  • Joined: 11-March 02

Posted 13 February 2004 - 08:33 PM

Quote

Carveable Stone

3 parts vermiculite (garden section at stores everywhere)
2 parts plaster of paris
2 scoops of water

Mix vermiculite, plaster of Paris and water. Pour mixture into a paper container such as milk carton. Wait fifteen minutes. Peel away paper. The "stone" will be soft at this stage. Mold with hands or carve using a spoon. If you want to work further on your carving, store in a sealable plastic bag...but not for too long.
When done modeling, let dry for a few days and coat with any type paint and sealer.
Makes a secret treasure holder that looks like a rock

Quote

how hard is it to get to look like a real rock?


That recipe will make a very heavy fake rock! If its a micro cache I guess it would work but I wouldn't want to lug a large one out into the woods. ;) For a larger, lighter fake rock try the hypertuff.

#24 User is offline   Lazyboy & Mitey Mite 

  • Doesn't Put Micros in the Woods
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 3087
  • Joined: 08-April 01

Posted 13 February 2004 - 08:44 PM

as a retired painter I will reccomend latex paints.

#25 User is offline   4x4luv 

  • Geocacher
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 85
  • Joined: 25-January 04

Posted 14 February 2004 - 12:09 AM

I suggest a couple coats of real thin portland cement let it dry between coats it should also protect it fron UV rays

#26 User is offline   reveritt 

  • Certified PITA
  • Group: +Premium Members
  • Posts: 1362
  • Joined: 21-January 04

Posted 14 February 2004 - 02:00 PM

When I was taking my one and only college art course, we had to make a sculpture of a human torso. We roughes out the shape in styrofoam, and then covered it with pre-mixed spackling compound. It stuck to the foam, and didn't crack if applied in a thin layer. It was necessary to build up the shape in multiple layers. My opus was not very good, and I later used it for target practice, but the fault was not in the medium. :unsure:

Share this topic:


Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic